Machine for making hat-linings



- G. W. WEISS. MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT LININGS. l APPLICATION FILED DEC. 3|, I9I. 1,347,001 e Patented July 2Q, 1920.,

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

G. WJWEISS. MACHINE FOR MAKING `vHAT LINING.

I APPLICATION FiLED DEC. 3l. 1917. 1,347,001 Patented my 2o, 19m

2 SHEEIS-SHEET 2.

lll/VENTO@ UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

MACHINE FOR MAKING HAT-LININGS.

Speccaton of Letters Patent.

Patented JulyT 20, 1920.

Application led December 31, 1917. Serial No. 209,724.

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, Gronoii lV. lNniss, a citizen of the United States, and resident of New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Ma- .ehines for Making Hat-Innings, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

The invention relates to machines for making hat linings in which the lining is supported on a turn table that has an oval movement and in which said turn table is moved toward a cutter' to trim off the surplus material after which it is brought back. to its original position in line with a sewing machine to sew a side lining of silk or other material around the edge of the lining proper,

and has for its object the simultaneous 111e-,

chanical control of the mechanism that controls the size and shape of the linings. A fur- `ther object of this invention is to provide means for simultaneously locking in adjusted position the mechanism that controls the size rand shape of the linings. Particularly this invention contemplates improvements on the Ahat lining machine of Henry Charmbury patented Dec. 18, 1894 Serial Number 531,098. The Charmbury machine has a bed plate u con which is mounted by means of a bolt at one end a carriage which may be oscillated back and forth from cutting to sewing position. Upon this carriage is mounted the mechanism for controlling the size and shape of the lining. The shape is coutrolled'by the upper slide bar and the size by the lower' slide bar. Each slide bar is positively locked by a separate screw. This invention utilizes the oscillatable carriage of Charmbury but provides means for actuating the slide bars and also varies the structure of these slide bars. In the preferred form two rotatable cam plates move the slide bars in one direction and springs keep the bars inv contact with the cams. VOne set screw positively clamps both bars in adjusted position. Auxiliary means are also provided on bothV slide bars permitting a supplemental adjustment of the length Vof each slide bar whereby odd sizes and shapes may be produced. The invention involves various features which will be described more fully hereafter and particularly pointed out in the claims. Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all figures Figure 1 is a plan view showing the i'elation of the sewing machine, the cutter and the oval mechanism.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the support for turn table and the controlling cams.

Fig. 3 is a front view of Fig. 2 with parts in section.

Fig. 4 is a rear view of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a sectional view of the turn table mechanism on line 5-5 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view on line 6-6 of Fig. 2. i

Fig. 7 is a sectional View on line 7-7 of Fig. 5.

Fig. 8 is a view of cutter disks.

In the annexed drawings I have shown a plan view of the cutter mechanism A and sewing machine B'to show their relation to the oval mechanism and to each other. Fig. 8 shows how the cutter disks coact with each other to cut. These are part of the usual cutting mechanism used on machines of this character, and being no part of the inventionare not particularly referred to.

In the construction of my improved machine I provide a base plate 1 which is secured to the table 2 by means of the screw stud 3 so that it is free to swing forward to the cutter A. On base plate 1 is supported a slide bar 4 which is secured to base plate 1 by thumb bolt or screw 5 which passes through a slot on base plate l into a recess on the under side of base plate l where it is fastened with a nut as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 3. On slide bar 4 is supported another slide 6 which is secured to bar 4 by screws 7-7 going through slots in slide 6 and screwing into slide 4. rlhese screws are to be set so that slide (i has a back and forward movement on slide bar 4. Slide 6 is provided with two raised portions 8--8 upon which is supported a slide 9 which is held in place by thumb screw 10 and screw 1l. Slide 9 is slotted so that it may be moved in and out. On slide 9 is secured a bent piece 12 which is adapted to come in contact with and engage socket or cork holder 21 on oval plate 19, and slide 9, to which piece 12 is secured. is clamped in position with thumb screw 10. On the end of slide bar 4 is a projection 13 upon which is supported a circular disk 14. 0n this disk the turn table 15 which consists vof al plate with two downpin 17 -in or out it changes the shape of the oval movement.

In turn table 15, is aslot 16 shown in Fig. 7. Pin 17 is secured to vslide 6. ,When slide Glismoved Yin or out the pin 17 will movein or out of slot 14a in di-sk14. `This makes the oval wide or narrow. Secured to the turn table 15 are two projections 1S. On these projections is secured Ithe ovalplate 19 by screws 20. --.Made integralawithoval platev 19 are four sockets 21 `which Icontain corks or anyothermaterial ofa like nature. Arranged above oval plate 19is another oval pla-te 22 which is provided with four-projections 21aA to support needles 24u fastened with screws 23 or otherwise secured. The liningg22n-is clamped' between 19 and 22 as shown in Figs. 3-l-5. lIn the .center .ofoval plate 19 is also a projection which contains a needle 24. To oval plate 22 issecured-a handle part 25.Y A spring 26 isfsecured to base plate 1 and'slide bar 4. Spring 27 is secured to slide bar 4 and 'slide 6. These springs serve to keep slide bar 4 and slide6 against thecams as 'will be hereinafter described. A hand lever 2S .is secured to base 1 by screw29 and held down byv spring l30. A recess 31 in table'is adapted-to receive the end of lever 28 and keep base 1..'in position to preventit lfrom .moving while the lining is being stitched.

Onscrew stud'3 which fastens Vbase 1 to table 2 I support two cams 32 and 33 as Vshown inFig. 6. These cams are fastened .together so that they turn in unison. vA set `screw32a is mounted in the bearing Yof the cam 32, which is rotatably mounted-on the .bearing of cam '33, so Athat lwhen the screw is tightened cams 32 and 33 rotate together on the stud 3.

loosened the cam surfaces may be relatively l lllhen the set Vscrew 3211s adjusted so that-a surface of different outline-may be presented to the slide 4` from that presented to slide 6. "They have cam faces 34 each one of which is at a lesser distancefrom the center than the one .preceding it as shown in Fig.2. These cams are .for the purpose of controllingthe slide bar 4 and slide 6 to-'make linings to iitall size hats. f Gam 32 controls slide'6 whichchanges the shape of the oval and -cam133 controls slide bar 4-whichcontrolsthe size ofthe oval.` ,In the preferred form the curvature .or outline of cam 33 varies slightly lfrom .thatbffcam 32. A:This is clearly'shown in Y .planin-v Fig. 2. The shapeof human heads i varies,4 as well as the size. A standard mean fora .particular clientele may however be gaged by observation so that :,theshapeof the cam that effects change `vin shapeof the oval can be adapted to the need or experience of a manufacturer. This eliminates the necessity of adjusting one cam with reference to the other. AThe cam disk 32V has holes 35 intoA which a plunger 36 fits. The

plunger l36 is supported in a bearing on angle piece 44 that is secured to aplate'37 by screws38. Plate 37 is secured torbase 1. A collar 39 is fastened to screwrstud 3 on Vtop of cams 32- and33 kto -hold them in position. Two slides 40 and .41. are vsecured to slide bar 4 and slide 6-fwith screws 42.

different hats -marked on=rit which, Yin conjunction withthe` plunger 36 enables one to set the cams to make linings of any size without? any rmeasuring, -marking or other adjustment. The numberoff the size linings one wishes .to make must be opposite the endof slides 4 andG and. not opposite the plunger 36. The cams 32 and '33 adjust the oval device so that the linings will lit thesize hat for which' it was made. Afterf. vthe sizeA of the lining youV wish to make has been set, the slides are fastened to base 1 by tightening thumb screw which locks slide barfr4jand slide 6 to base 1 and prevents any change inthe size which vmight be caused by the accidental shifting of the slides. On table 2 a stop46 is secured which limits the forward movement of base 1 when-it is moved toward the cutters. The operationofmy improvedmachine is as follows z-tlaise 'the plunger 36 so that it clears the lcam '32, .turncam 32 so that theV cam face producing the size you wishV to Vmake will be opposite andb'earingon' the-slide 40 as shown in Fig, 2. Then let plunger drop into hole 35. 'Thislocks Ythe cams `in position and Vprevents any accidental displacement of'them. Tighten thumb screw 5.

Turn oval attachment until thesocket with the cork'in oneof the long ends inoval plate 19 is in line with slide 9. Move slide 9 until -lAlOV part. 12 comes -in contact with socket 21 that holds the corkand tighten thumbscrew 10.Y VThislocks the-oval plate straight while the lining is being put on. Take off oval plate 22, place the lining-with :its center over the needle point 24 on oval plate 19-,Vput back oval Vplate 22, so that the needles'willgo through the lining into thecorksinf the sockets Vin and without resistance. Press down. lever 2S so that the end that fits into table 2 Will be clear, push base l toward the cutter B until it reaches stop 46 on table. Then cut the lining all the Way around by turning the turn table With the lining on until the entire edge of lining has been trimmed off. Bring hack the base l until lever 28 slips into the hole in the table and locks it in position. Then stitch the lining around the edge with the sewing machine. By means of the cams 32 and 33 and the plunger 36 quick, positive and accurate adjustments of both the size and shape of the lining are made so that an inexperienced person may make them in an instant.V It an independent adj u'stment of either the size or shape of lining is desired it can be done vby adjusting the auxiliary slides 40 and il as may be necessary. l` do not Wish to limit myself vto the particular construction shown and described as various modifications and changes may he made Without departing from the spirit of the invention.

iVhat I claim as neiv and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. ln a machine for cutting hat linings, means Jfor supporting the material to be cut comprising a struc-ture mounted to turn in a horizontal plane so that a predetermined lined point in said plane describes a predetermined curve of oval form on said structure, a mounting for said structure, adjustable means for changing the size et said curve, adjustable means for changing the shape oi' said curve, and means for simultaneously setting said adjustable means in predetermined position.

2. ln a machine for cutting hat linings, means for supporting the material to be cut comprising a structure mounted to turn in horizontal plane so that a predetermined lined point in said plane describes a predetermined curve ot oval term on said structure, a mounting for said structure, a slide for changing the size of said curve.y a second slide for changing the shape of said curve, and means for simultaneously setting said slides in predetermined position.

ln a machine Vfor cutting hat linings, means ,tor supporting `the material to be cut comprising a structure mounted to turn in a horizontal plane sothat a predetermined fixed peint in said plane describes a predetermined curve of oval form on'said structure, a mounting for said structure@ springretracted slide for changing the size efsaid curve, a second spring-retracted slide for changing the shape of said curve. and means for simuitaneously setting said slides in predetermined position. Y

4. ln a machine for cutting hat linings, means for supporting the material to be cut comprising a structure mounted to turn in a horizontal plane so that a predetermined iixed point in said plane describes a predetermined curve of oval form on said structure, a mounting for said structure, a springretracted slide for changing the size of said curve, a second spring-retracted slide for changing the shape of said curve, and two cams mounted for simultaneous movement on the same axis, one adapted to engage the end er one slide and the other the end of the other slide.

5. In a machine for cutting hat linings, means iior supporting the material to be eut comprising a structure mounted to turn in a horizontal plane so that a predetermined fixed point in said plane describes a predetermined curve of oval form on said structure, a mounting for said structure, a slide for changing the size ot said curve, a second slide for changing the shape of the curve, means mounted on each slide whereby the length of said slide may be varied, and cams adapted to simultaneously actuate said slides.

G. In a machine for cutting hat linings, means for supporting the material to be cut comprising a structure mounted to turn in a horizontal plane so that a predetermined fixed point in said. plane describes a predetermined curve of oval form on said structure, a mounting for said structure, a springi'etracted slide for changing the size of said curve, a second spring-retracted slide for changing the shape of said curve, and mea-ns for simultaneously actuating said slides, comprising tivo cams mounted to turn on the same axis, means for securing said cams against relative movement, and means ior locking one ot said cams against turning.

7. ln a machine for cutting hat linings. means for supporting the material to be out comprising a structure mounted to turn in a horizontal plane so that a predetermined fixed point in said plane describes a predetermined curve of oval form on said structure, a mounting Jfor said structure. a springretracted slide for changing the size of said curve, a second spring-retracted slide for changing the shape of said curve, and means for simultaneously locking said slides against movement.

8. ln a machine for cutting hat linings. means for supporting the material to be cut comprising a structure mounted to turn in a horizontal plane so that a predetermined fixed point in. said plane describes a predetermined curve of oval term on said structure, a mounting for said structure, a springretracted slide ior changing. the size ot said curve, a second spring-retracted slice for changing the shape of said curve, means for simultaneously setting said slides in predetermined position. and means for simultaneously locking said slides in said position.

9. In aY machine for cutting hat linings, means for supporting the material to be cut comprising a structure mounted to turn in a horizontal planeV yso thatV a predetermined fixed point in said plane describes a predetermined curve of oval form on said structure, a mounting for said structure, adjustable Vmeans for changing the size of said curve, adjustable means for changing the shape of said curve, and means for simultaneously setting said adjustable means in predetermined position, said last-mentioned means comprising two cams having surfaces of different shape adapted to rotate on the same axis.

10. In a machine for making hat linings, the combination with a device for producing oval rotation, means for supporting the lining on said oval producing device, slides for changing the size and shape of the oval, controlling means acting simultaneously on the slides, and means for locking said controlling means, substantially as shown'and described.

11. In a machine for making hat linings, the combination with a device for produc; ing oval rotation; means for supporting the lining on said oval producing device; a swinging support Vfor said oval producing device; compound controlling devices operating simultaneously; a locking device supported by said swinging oval support for locking said controlling devices and swinging oval support together in different positions; substantially as shown and described.

12. In a machine for making hat linings the combination with a device for producing oval rotation; means for supporting the lining on said oval producing device, means for locking said oval device against rotation, primary controlling devices, means for locking said controlling devices, and secondary controlling devices, located between said primary controlling devices and the oval turning device substantially as shown and described. Y

13. In a machine ofthe classdescribed thec'ombination with a device for producing oval rotation, means for supporting the hat lining on said oval producing device, slides for changing the size` and shape of the oval, means as shown and described for simultaneously controlling the 'movements of the slides, means for locking said controlling means, and secondary controlling devices located between said simultaneous controlling means and the oval rotation* producing device.

14. In a machine of the class described the combination with a swinging base7 a` device for producing oval rotation supportedv on saidswinging base, means for supporting thevhat lining on said oval producing device, slides for changing the size and shape of the oval, rotary members for simultaneously controlling said slides, and locking means supported by the swinging base for locking means for supporting the hat lining on theV oval producing device, means forintermittently locking said oval device against Vrotation, slides for controlling' the size and shape of the oval, adjusting devices carried byrsaid slidesymeans' forsecuring said ad-V justing devices in their adjusted positions, moan for simultaneously. controlling the movement of the Slides, and means carried bythe swinging arm for locking said simultaneously controlling means indefinite positions substantially as shown and described.

16.` In a machine for making hat linings, the combinationk with a cutter, a device for producing oval rotation supportedvfor movement to and from said cutter, means for supporting the lining on said oval producing device, locking Ymeans for securing said oval producing device in fixedv relation to the sewing machine, slides for changing the size andshape of the ova-l, cams for simultaneously controlling the movement of the slides, means for locking the Vcams against movement, means carried by the slides for independently adjusting Vthem in relation to the cams, and means for intermittently locking said ovalagainst rotation.

17. In a machine for making hat linings, the combination with a swinging base, a device for producing ovalrotation supported on said swinging base', 'of means for locking said base in its'operative position, means for supporting the hat lining on said oval producing device, a slide for changing the shape of the oval, a slide `for changing the size of Vthe oval, cams for simultaneously controlling the movement ofthe slides, a dial on the cams, means carried by the base for-'locking the cams against movement, means for locking the slides to the base, and means for intermittently locking said oval against rotationsubstantially as'shown and described.

18.' In a machine for making hat linings the combination with a swinging base, a device for producing oval rotation supported on said vSwinging base. means for locking said'base in "its operative position, means carried by said oval producing device for supporting a hat lining, means for intermittently locking said oval producing device against rotation, vslides carried bythe base for changing the'size and shape vof the oval,

means for locking `said slides to the' base, means for simultaneously controlling the slides, aidial for indicating the sizes of the linings carried by said controlling means, means for locking 'said controlling means in different positions,` means carriedby the slides for independently regulating their relation to the controlling means, and means forA securing said independent regulating devices in their adjusted positions substan- Ytially as shown and described.

19. In a machine for making hat linings the combination With a swinging base, a device Jfor producing oval rotation supported on said swinging base, a stud for pivotally securing said base to the table, means for locking said base in its operative position, slides carried by the base for changing the size and shape of the oval, means supported by the stud for simultaneously controlling the movement of the slides, means for locking the slides to the base, a locking device carried by the base for locking said controlsaid swinging base; a stud for pivotally securing said base to the table; means for locking said base in its operative position; slides carried by the base for changing the size and shape of the ovals; means supported by the stud for simultaneously controlling the movement of the slides in one direction; springs for controlling the movement of the slides in the opposite direction; means for locking the slides to the base in their adjusted positions; a locking device carried by the base for locking said controlling means in dilerent positions; a dial secured to the controlling means :tor indicating the sizes to be made; means for supporting a hat lining on said oval producing device in proper relation to a sewing machine and cutters; and means for intermittently locking said oval device against rotation; substantially as shovvn and described.

Signed at New York city, in the county of Nevv York and State of New York this 19th day of December, A. D. 1917.

GEORGE W. WEISS.

lVitnesses:

IRVING SGHRECKINGER, M. O. GORDON. 

